Modern Era Card Care

Whether you're working on modern era plastic or paper, we've got tips to get you started! Select your card type to begin or scroll through the page.

What can you fix on modern cards? Play the video to find out!

Top Fixable Issues on Modern Era - Plastic, Prizm and Chrome

Surfaces - Including finger prints, dirt, ink removal, and age spots that just happen over time.
Bring a dull finish back to life
Light edge and corner fixes
Soaking to remove indents on the back of the card is an option - Must practice this because results will vary based on year and card condition

Top Permanent Issues on Modern Era - Plastic, Prizm and Chrome

Scratches, print lines, dimples, separation or surface peeling. Bent corners - Plastic is not very forgiving

Watch These Videos To Get Started with Modern Era - Plastic, Prism and Chrome

Modern Era Cards Surface Cleaning:

Removing Ink From Modern Era Cards

Fixing Edges on Modern Era Cards

Fixing Corners on Modern Era Cards

Card Soak Optic

Be sure to check out our guide to soaking and drying cards, FIRST.

Top Fixable Issues on Modern Era Paper Cards - like Upper Deck, Topps, Hoops, and Donruss

Surfaces - Including finger prints, dirt, ink removal, and age spots that just happen over time.
Light edge and corner fixes
Smaller dents, and dings

Top Permanent Issues on Modern Era Paper Cards

Bent corners
Creases

Watch These Videos To Get Started with Modern Era Paper Cards - like Upper Deck, Topps, Hoops, and Donruss

Modern Era Cards Surface Cleaning:

Modern Era Corners

Modern Era Dents

Modern Era Card Cleaning Do's and Don'ts

Polish Do's

The Polish is perfect on these cards that have a shiny plastic front and back. Whether it’s '90s Fleer Metal or a Luka Prizm Rookie the polish will shine the surface and clean it at the same time.
The polish is not a scratch remover but apply it to all surface issues. I find that there are two styles of surface issues on these types of cards. Some are scratched into the card and those are permanent. Others are superficial and right on top of the card and many of these can be cleaned off or reduced. It's always worth a shot, no matter what you see on these cards.
Use clean applicators every new session and if you need to order more, I have Amazon links for the applicators here: Polish/Spray Applicators
Keep the polish between 68-72 degrees for best performance.
When applying polish to an applicator, do it softly, like spreading butter on bread. Do not smash it up and dig into it. Gentle.
To keep it fresh keep it out of light and the lid on tight.

Polish Don'ts

Do not use on autographs or serial numbers.
Certain foil accents are easy to remove too. If polish ever dries on your card. Don’t try scratching it off. Just apply some more on top and it will remove all of it. This happens when you don’t remove it fast enough.

Spray Do's

Use the spray before the polish to remove ink spots, stuck on stuff, heavy finger prints…whatever “stuff” happens to be on your card. Spray is great at getting the surface back to factory like by removing whatever happens to land on the card.

Spray Don'ts

Do not spray directly on the card.
Do not use on autographs or serial numbers.
Certain foil accents are easy to remove too.

Card Tool Do's

Use the tool to help get the edges and corners back in place. This works well in combination with humidity treatments. Use for indents on the back of cards such as “nail marks” .

Card Tool Don'ts

If the front surface or corner of a modern card is bent its likely a permanent issue. Once the plastic bends it will usually stretch the plastic a bit. Hard to restore 100%. Don’t push hard and always use a penny sleeve in-between the surface of the tool and card for added protection.

Bottom Line: To AVOID any potential mistakes test everything on a base card before you go for the Mike Trout Refractor Rookie. Base cards from the same set are made of the same material and they will teach you how to successfully work on your best cards.